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What is garment dyeing?

Garment dyeing sews the garment first, in undyed fabric, and dyes the finished piece afterwards in a batch. It produces the soft, washed, slightly faded-at-the-seams finish of premium heavyweight streetwear. Piece dyeing — dyeing the fabric roll before cutting — is the alternative, and it is how our garments are coloured: a colour of your own with us is a 300-piece dye lot at the mill, lab-dip approved.

Why it matters

It is the finish behind most washed-look streetwear, and it is often assumed to be a way round colour minimums. It is a specialist process with its own minimums, shrinkage allowances and batch variation — which is part of the look.

On our floor

We do not garment-dye. Custom colours are piece-dyed to order in 300-piece lots, matched to Pantone TCX with a lab dip; below 300 we match from stock colours. Heavyweight cotton in a stock colour with a discharge or water-based print gets most of the way to the washed feel.

Common questions

Does garment dyeing shrink the garment?
Yes — the fabric shrinks in the dye, so garment-dyed pieces are cut oversize to an allowance. Piece-dyed fabric, ours, is compacted before cutting instead.
What is the minimum for a custom colour with you?
A 300-piece dye lot of that colour. Stock colours can be split within a 50-piece order at 30 per colour.
Can garment-dyed pieces be printed?
Yes — decoration is applied after dyeing. Discharge and water-based prints suit the finish, on garment-dyed and stock-colour cotton alike.
Why do garment-dyed seams look lighter?
Thread and rib take dye differently and the wash softens edges. It is the finish brands choose it for.

Related terms

lab dip

A lab dip is a small piece of the actual fabric dyed to your Pantone reference before any bulk dyeing, sent for approval. It is how a…

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Pantone TCX

Pantone TCX is the Pantone system for textiles: colours defined on dyed cotton swatches rather than printed paper, so they represent what a…

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pre-shrunk

Pre-shrunk — or compacted — fabric has been mechanically shrunk before the garment is cut, so the finished piece shrinks far less in the…

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discharge printing

Discharge printing uses an ink that bleaches the garment's own dye out of the fabric where the design sits, then replaces it with pigment.…

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Where this applies

What is garment dyeing?

The full guide, and how custom colour works with us.

Read the guide

Private label

Stock colours from 30; your own from 300.

See private label

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